Bike Check 1, 2.

 

 

Before Every Ride:

Take a few minutes to check your rig out in the driveway or at the Trailhead to insure you have a great ride. This way you can detect problems before you get away from it all.

Check tire air pressure– Literally squeeze the tire with your hand and/or confirm with a gauge.

Check brakes and cables– Do they actually stop the bike? Do they rub the rotor or rim? Are the cables and housing frayed or damaged. Does the bike shift into all the gears?

Are things tight? -(so i don’t get hurt or have a bad time) Be sure wheels are tight, grab seat post and rear tire and check for rear-end/hub play and do the same with the stem and front wheel. Grab the crank arms one at a time and push/pull in and away from the chain to detect play or looseness.

Confirm suspension SAG- sit on the bike with all lockout and compression switches fully open and use the factory o-rings or a small looseish zip-tie and make sure your in the ball park-25ish% (half of half)- We love Helping you with this!!!

After Every Ride:

Take a few minutes before you hang it up for the night to check a few things out.  Its a great time to recap the ride and think back on your experience with your bike while its fresh in your head.  This is the best to find problems and get them taken care of before the next ride. Need a hand? give us a call 906-225-1577 or stop by 1100 N. 3rd in Marquette

Lube the Chain.  Did my drive train feel smooth and performed quietly during my ride?  Or was it squeaky and dry?  Crunchy and dirty?   Lube your chain once a week or every 200 miles at least. Or, lube your chain when you can start to hear that it has a dry metallic sound when pedaling.  Its always best to lube after the ride instead of before the ride. This way your bike is stored, lubed and ready to go for the next ride!

Wipe chain, lube chain, wipe chain!    Its really easy to not lube your chain enough but you can also over lube.  Make sure to wipe off as much excess lube as you can.  We want the chain lube to be on the inside of the chain, not on the outside where the lube can collect dirt and dust.  We love “dry” lubes here at the shop.  When used correctly they create a smooth “electric” feeling drive train and they run very clean.   Not all chain lubes like to be applied the same, so be sure to check to see how your favorite lube should be applied.   Overall –  A quiet shiny chain is a happy chain.  Stop by for lubing advice or great lube options.

Since the rag is out this is also a great time to wipe off our suspension components to remove the dirt and dust that can gather on the stanchions of the rear shock and fork.  A quick wipe of the stanchions and dust wipers will help your suspension stay smooth and supple.

Check brakes and cables-  Did my brakes work well during my ride?  Did they make terrible noises? Were they rubbing the rotor or rim?

How did my bike shift?  Skipped on any  gears?  Clicked a while before getting into the gear you wanted?  Are the cables and housing frayed or damaged?

Are things still tight? – We put our bikes thru some crazy terrain that can stress the bike.  Double check to be sure wheels and suspension pivots ( if you have them) are still tight and have no play in them.  Be sure wheels are tight – grab seat post and rear tire and check for rear-end/hub play and do the same with the stem and front wheel.   Pick the bike up off the ground a few inches several times to feel for any clunks or clicks when the bike is unweighted.  If you feel a clunk – it may be a loose pivot or loose headset. Grab the crank arms one at a time and push/pull in and away from the chain to detect play or looseness.  You dont want the cranks to fall off.

Once a Month:

Completely clean the bike, Including the drivetrain if necessary. Mild soap ( Dawn) or simple green and water. Water it sweet as long as we keep it where it belongs- Garden hose pressure is plenty, as our bearings may be sealed but not sealed against hurricane forces. No pressure-washers please. Also be mindful not to spray or wipe anything weird on our brake rotors ( like lube or other oily things).

Inspect chain and freewheel. Measure the chain for wear (stop in well help you out).  Check for tight links and replace the chain if necessary.

Check brakes and cables- Do my brakes actually stop the bike? Check the brake pads for wear life. Replace if needed. We can show you how to do this.  Do your brakes rub the rotor or rim?  Do your brakes sound terrible when braking?

Are the cables and housing frayed or damaged? Does the bike shift into all the gears?

Wheels and Tires –  Inspect wheels for loose spokes, wobbles, or strange pinging noises while freewheeling.  Check for any play in the hub by holding the seatpost and moving the wheel side to side.  There should be no “clunk” feeling.

Check tires for punctures, torn knobs, casing shown or side wall slashes that may leave you on the side of the trail next ride.

Inspect and check for looseness in the:

  • Stem bolts
  • Suspension hardware and Pivots
  • Handlebar binder bolt
  • Seatpost binder bolt (or quick release)
  • Seat fixing bolt
  • Crank bolts
  • Chainring bolts
  • Derailleur mounting bolts
  • Bottle cage bolts
  • Rack mounting bolts
  • Brake and derailleur cable anchors
  • Brake and shifter lever mounting bolts
  • Brake mounting bolts

Every Three Months:

Inspect frame and fork for paint scratches, gouges, cracks or bulges that may indicate frame or part damage; pay particular attention to all frame joints.

Visually inspect for bent components: seat rails, seat post, stem, handlebars, chainrings, crankarms, brake calipers and brake levers.

Every Six Months/Half Season:

Our “TuneUp +” Perhaps

Completely clean the bike, including the drive train

Inspect and readjust bearings in headset, hubs, pedals and bottom bracket (if possible; some sealed cartridge bearings cannot be adjusted, only replaced).

True wheels and confirm spoke tension

Fork: consider a lowers drop. it refreshes your forks bath oil and maintains that smooth small bump sensitivity!

Replace if needed: brake pads, cables, housings, tires, any and all worn drive train parts.

Annually:

Our “Full Tune”  Perhaps

If you ride a lot, in the rain or wet/dirty conditions you should overhaul your bicycles more often.

Disassemble and overhaul; replace all bearings (if possible); and remove and if necessary replace all brake and shift cables.

Completely clean the bike, including the drive train

Inspect and readjust headset, hubs, pedals and bottom bracket (if possible; some sealed cartridge bearings cannot be adjusted, only replaced).

True wheels and confirm spoke tension

Replace if needed: brake pads, cables, housings, tires, any and all worn drive train parts.

Suspension Service. Manufacturers are nearly in agreement that a season of riding is 100 hours/

Fork Overhaul-Fresh fork oil and dust wipers. Full clean and inspection of internals.

Rear Shock Air Sleeve Maintenance- Fresh oil and seals. Full clean and inspection of internals.